Jewelry Care

Our Jewelry: Questions, Cleaning & Care

Many of our customers have expressed concern regarding the components used in our jewelry (due to allergies, etc.), as well as how to clean and maintain the products they buy here. This page serves as a quick-reference guide so you'll have the answers right at your fingertips!

Jump to:
General Questions About Our Jewelry
Plated Metal Jewelry - Cleaning & Care
Fabric Chokers - Cleaning & Care

General Questions:

Why Is Your Jewelry So Cheap? Is It Sweatshop-Made Crap??

Absolutely not! It's cheap for "designer" jewelry because we're smart, practical and unpretentious. We use mostly glass and crystal instead of gems, and plated base metals and zinc alloy pewter instead of solid gold and silver. We buy in medium to large quantities direct from major distributors to save on costs, and make products in small batches to save space. Our studio is small, private and home-based, so there's very little overhead costs, and there's only 1 regular employee: the owner/designer herself! (occasionally we get help, but it's usually just her!). Also, we don't believe in charging an arm and a leg "just because we can".

 

I Have Metal Allergies. Am I Going To Have A Reaction?

Nickel allergies are common (in about 15% of people), although many with allergies can wear nickel for a few hours without problems. Products known to be fully nickel-free have been noted in their descriptions for your convenience. Also, we offer upgrades to sterling silver earring hooks for those who have sensitive ears - click here for details! We test our jewelry as best as we can, and can say with a great deal of confidence that most pieces are nickel-free. But if you need to be absolutely sure, we recommend investing in a product such as "Nickel Alert - Detect" liquid tester (found on Amazon, some drug stores, etc.) to check any metal objects you wish.

 

What Does "Plated" Mean?

Plating is a process where one metal is applied over another in a thin layer by using an electrical current to bond the two metals together. This is done for three reasons: 1. to protect against corrosion or scratches (rhodium or nickel plating), 2. to resist discolouration or tarnish (rhodium or gold plating), or 3. to reduce cost, since a product made with a thin layer of precious metal (e.g. silver) over a less expensive base metal (e.g. brass) costs much less than a solid piece of precious metal.

 

What Is "Rhodium"?

Rhodium is a silver-coloured precious metal from the platinum family that is highly scratch- and tarnish- resistant. It has a slightly less reflective finish than sterling silver which makes it a great compliment to antiqued silver jewelry, since antiqued finishes are darker in colour and less reflective. We use a lot of rhodium-plated components in our jewelry for both these reasons. Also, rhodium is usually safe for people with sensitive skin since it does not contain nickel (which some people are allergic to).

 

What Is The Difference Between "Silver Plated", "Sterling Plate" and "Solid Sterling"?

"Solid sterling" means that the metal content of the entire component is .925 silver with a .075 additive, usually copper (almost pure silver). "Sterling plate" means that this high quality of silver has been layered on top of a base metal, usually steel or brass. It is sometimes called "silver filled" if it's a much thicker layer of plating. Solid sterling will usually be stamped with a hallmark ("925"); sterling plate will not have a hallmark since it is only a layer over another metal. Since sterling silver is rather expensive (and fairly soft, as metals go), plating it over a hard base metal gives the component greater durability at a lower cost. "Silver plated" is a more general term and implies that either sterling silver or a silver/tin alloy has been layered over a base metal. Our silver-plated components do not contain any nickel and are almost always actual sterling plate.

 

What's the Difference Between "Antiqued" and "Antiqued Oxidized" Metal?

Normal polished silver is bright and shiny, and very white in colour, and polished brass i. "Antiqued" silver is slightly more steel-grey in colour, often with the deep areas in the design darkened (by use of a pigmenting agent) and the raised areas left shiny. "Antiqued oxidized" silver has been treated with a chemical that actually changes the surface of the metal; it has a a rich all-over matte finish ("patina"), is a darker steel-grey colour, and the deepest areas in the design have been significantly darkened to imitate considerable age.

 

Does Crystal Contain Lead? Is It Dangerous?

Traditionally, crystal beads and rhinestones were 20%-30% lead. Today however, most crystal is either very low lead or completely lead-free. You cannot absorb lead through your skin - it is only transferable through inhalation and ingestion. Therefore crystal should not be handled by small children, since they often put objects in their mouths. Lead is present in many other household objects (old pewter, plumbing pipes, dirt/soil, older fine glassware, etc.); always wash your hands after handling these objects, and never drink from a chipped or cracked crystal glass, just to be sure.

Cleaning & Care: Beads, Plated Metal & Pewter

This includes the metal parts on our fabric chokers as well as necklaces, earrings, etc., but fabric chokers require special care (see below).

Plated metal jewelry requires a bit more "TLC" than solid precious metal jewelry. The plated surface is not as durable as solid sterling or gold; think of it more like a veneer. Since it's a thin layer it will eventually erode where it rubs against the skin with prolonged use, revealing the base metal underneath. This is a process which can take anywhere from 2-10 years depending on how frequently you wear it and how well you care for it. This is also why plated jewelry is much less expensive than solid precious metal - its shorter lifespan is the sacrifice we make.

 

Storage & Care

It's easy to make your plated jewelry last longer. If you wear it only periodically (a couple times a month and/or for only a few hours at a time) and avoid contact with household cleaning products, perfume, alcohol-based skin products, potting soil, talc, and abrasive surfaces such as granite, steel wool and sandpaper, it should last 5-10 years, perhaps more. Hang up your necklaces and earrings rather than casually tossing them in a jewelry box, or at least keep each item separate in a reclosable bag if storing them flat; otherwise you risk rubbing and scratching. You can further protect your plated jewelry by periodically painting clear liquid lacquer specially designed for protecting metal (or even clear nail varnish if cost is a factor) to the surfaces that touch the skin most frequently.

 

Cleaning Beads, Plated Metals & Zinc Alloy Pewter

First, try polishing with a soft dry cloth since it's the safest way to remove dirt and restore shine. We recommend reusable/washable jewelry cleaning cloths (e.g. SELVYT® brand) or a piece of plain chamois leather - these are safe on metal surfaces as well as crystal, glass, acrylic and other components. Even a very soft old T-shirt can get the job done.

Still dirty? Avoid contact with abrasive chemicals as they will damage metal plating and ruin the darkened finish of antiqued components. Instead, dip in mildly soapy lukewarm water and then gently wipe (don't soak). DO NOT use chemical cleaners, anti-tarnish agents, or "impregnated" type polishing cloths on plated metals or plastics. These things are usually safe for glass, crystal and pewter though, but always test in an inconspicuous area first.

After cleaning, the article should be rinsed thoroughly with water to remove any soap residue, then dried immediately with a soft, lint-free cloth. Air drying can sometimes leave water spots, so it’s best to dry them by hand to ensure they retain their clarity and shine.

For bright silver components (our choker clasps and chains) we recommend dipping or "painting" the tarnished parts with silver cleaners such as Empires Instant Tarnish Remover or ShineBrite Silver Dip, usually sold at jewellers, bead/craft stores, and online marketplaces like Amazon.

Cleaning & Care: Fabric Choker Necklaces

Storage & Care

If you are rough with your jewelry, even the most sturdy fabrics can snag, run or tear - avoid casually tossing your choker in your purse or jewelry box. You can fold the ribbon neatly and store in a recloseable bag (we usually ship our products in plastic and/or organza bags, be sure to keep them!), or at just lay it flat in a covered tray so it won't get dusty. You can also hang velvet or satin ones up by the clasp/chain, but avoid doing this with lace as it could stretch out over time.

 

Wrinkled or Folded Satin & Velvet

Press satin chokers from the back using the lowest setting. Do not let the iron touch any metal or glued components. If it doesn't help much, try the lowest possible steam setting, but keep the iron moving quickly so you don't create shiny spots.

Velvet chokers can be steamed: (if you don't have a steamer, set your iron to the lowest steam setting). Hover over the velvet while face up, making several slow passes, avoiding any metal pieces or glued components. Gently brush the pile (fuzzy part) back and forth with your finger for 10 seconds or so while it dries, if needed. If there are any crumpled or folded areas, flip the velvet over and iron on lowest steam setting directly on the back, but again be sure to avoid metal and glued parts. Flip over quickly and brush the velvet back and forth with your finger to smooth over the creased areas and fluff up the pile. Repeat if necessary.

 

Stretched-Out, Folded or Wrinkled Lace

Most can be shrunk or tugged back into shape with a mist of lukewarm water. Place the choker face down on a towel and mist with a spray bottle until lightly damp, avoiding any metal parts. Move to a dry towel, flip it face-up, and arrange any out-of-shape areas by gently tugging in those spots only. DO NOT pull on it by the ends where the metal clamps attach, or you risk weakening/tearing the fabric there. Leave it to dry flat.

 

Cleaning The Fabric

All of the ribbon and lace materials we use are colour-fast and washable, but still require care. Generally, cleaning should be a last resort since you risk making water stains, puckering the ribbon, creating "worn" marks or even rips - so don't do it until absolutely necessary. Dip a cloth in very diluted mild detergent (the same type you use for lingerie/delicates), dab gently according to the tips below, and allow the choker to dry flat. In all cases, don't yank on the ends. DO NOT IMMERSE IN WATER unless it is the absolute last resort (see "Heavy Soiling" section below) or you could damage the fabric and/or the plated metal parts.

• Lace and other woven trims: dab with a cloth or wipe gently; do not scrub or you may pull it out of shape.
• Velvet: gently brush the cloth back and forth in a long sweeping motion across the length of the ribbon, even the clean areas of the velvet to ensure you don't make a "worn" spot. 
• Satin: dampen ALL of the exposed satin equally or you could get watermarks when it dries; will likely require ironing afterwards (use lowest steam setting).
  
  

Getting Rid of Odours: Drape it over a coat hanger and leave in an indoor area with good air circulation for a couple of days. If that doesn't help, mist velvet or lace on the back with fabric refresher spray, eg. Febreze, but test in an inconspicuous area first. Satin may stain, so it's safer to just air it out for several days. If it doesn't help much though, see the "Heavy Soiling" section below. 

 

Heavy Soiling: If the above tips don't get it clean enough, as a very last resort (and this should never be done more than 2 or 3 times in a choker's lifetime), you can hand-wash it.

1. Fill a large soup bowl with cool water and 2-3 drops of mild detergent suitable for delicate synthetics. Drop the choker in, and swish back and forth constantly for about 1 minute, then leave it to soak for 5 more minutes. 
2. Lift it up by slipping your hand under the centre area (not the ends!) and rinse carefully under a cold tap. 
3. Lay it out face-up on a soft dry towel, and blot gently with another towel. DO NOT squeeze or wring, or tug on the metal parts! The fabric at the ends will have softened and could become loose or even rip where the metal parts attach. 
4. If needed, lace can be gently smoothed or tugged back into shape, but again, avoid touching the ends.
5. Drape the choker and towel over the back of a chair so that the ends of the choker dangle evenly down each side. Allow it to dry completely, then if it needs some ironing, follow the instructions above.