Jewelry Care

Our Jewelry: Questions, Cleaning, Storage & Care

Many of our customers have expressed concern regarding the components used in our jewelry (due to allergies, etc.), as well as how to clean and maintain the products they buy here. This page serves as a quick-reference guide so you'll have the answers right at your fingertips!

Jump To:
General Questions About Our Jewelry
Plated Metal Jewelry - Cleaning & Care
Fabric Chokers - Storage, Cleaning & Care
Beaded Jewelry - Types, Cleaning and Care

General Questions:

Why Is Your Jewelry So Cheap? Is It Sweatshop-Made Crap??

Absolutely not! It's cheap for "designer" jewelry because we're smart, practical and unpretentious. No, it's not solid gold and silver, and that's not a bad thing - because let's face it, not everyone has the budget for that! So we use crystal instead of gems, and silver plated brass and pewter instead of precious metals. We buy in medium to large quantities direct from major distributors to save on costs, and make products in small batches to save space. Our studio is small, private and home-based, so there's very little overhead costs, and there's only 1 regular year-round employee: the owner/designer herself! (occasionally we get help and feature other designers though). Also, we don't believe in charging an arm and a leg "just because we can"!

 

I Have Metal Allergies. Am I Going To Have A Reaction?

Nickel allergies are common (in about 15% of people), so we avoid it like the plague... although many with allergies can wear nickel for a few hours without problems. Products known to be fully nickel-free have been noted in their descriptions for your peace of mind. Also, we offer upgrades to sterling silver earring hooks for those who have sensitive ears - click here for details! We test our jewelry as best as we can, and can say with a great deal of confidence that most pieces are nickel-free. But if you extremely sensitive and need to be absolutely sure, we recommend investing in a product such as Nickel Alert - Detect liquid tester or Reveal & Conceal Nickel Spot Test (found on Amazon, some drug stores, etc.) to check any metal objects you wish.

 

What Does "Plated" Mean?

Plating ("electroplating") is a process where one metal is applied over another in a thin layer by using an electrical current to bond the two metals together. This is done for three reasons: to protect against corrosion or scratches (rhodium or nickel plating), to resist discolouration or tarnish (rhodium or gold plating), or to reduce cost, since a product made with a thin layer of precious metal (e.g. silver) over a less expensive base metal (e.g. brass) costs much less than a solid piece of precious metal.

 

What Is "Rhodium"?

Rhodium is a silver-coloured precious metal from the platinum family that is highly scratch- and tarnish- resistant. It has a slightly less reflective finish than sterling silver which makes it a great compliment to antiqued silver jewelry, since antiqued finishes are darker in colour and less reflective. We use a lot of rhodium-plated components in our jewelry for both these reasons. Also, rhodium is usually safe for people with sensitive skin since it does not contain nickel (which some people are allergic to).

 

What Is The Difference Between "Silver Plated", "Sterling Plate" and "Solid Sterling"?

First, silver is usually very a bright shiny "white" in colour, noticeably brighter than nickel or steel. It is a soft metal compared to many others, and can scratch and tarnish easily, so it's often coated with a very fine clear varnish, or plated very thinly with rhodium or platinum to harden the surface (which can also change the colour to slightly darker).

• "Sterling" means that the metal content of the entire component is .925 silver with a .075 additive, usually copper (almost pure silver). Solid sterling will usually be stamped with a hallmark ("925"), but this is not always the case.
  
  
• "Sterling plate" means that this high quality of silver has been thinly layered on top of a base metal, usually steel or brass. It's sometimes called "silver filled" if it's a much thicker layer, and comes with a slightly higher price tag. Sterling plate will not have a hallmark since it's only a layer over another metal. Since sterling silver is rather expensive, plating it over a hard base metal gives the component greater durability at a lower cost.
  
  
• "Silver plated" is a more general term and implies that either sterling silver or a silver/tin alloy has been layered over a base metal, such as brass. Our silver-plated components do not contain any nickel and are almost always actual sterling plate.

 

What's the Difference Between "Antiqued" and "Antiqued Oxidized" Metal?

Normal silver is very shiny, reflective and bright "white" in colour, and raw polished brass looks almost like 18K gold. "Antique(d)" metals are noticeably darker in colour thanks to being a different alloy of the metal, but still quite shiny/reflective, and usually (but not always) with the deepest areas in the design darkened by use of a pigmenting agent.

"Antiqued oxidized" metal has been treated with a chemical that actually changes the metal surface; it has a rich all-over matte finish ("patina"), is not very reflective at all, has a much darker colour, and the deepest areas in the design have been significantly blackened to imitate considerable age.

 

Does Crystal Contain Lead? Is It Dangerous?

Traditionally, crystal beads and rhinestones were 20%-30% lead (lead oxide is what made the glass look so clear and "white" instead of slightly green-tinted). Today however, most crystal is either very low lead or completely lead-free, thanks to additives such as barium oxide, zinc oxide, or potassium oxide that equal its clarity.

You cannot absorb lead through your skin - it is only transferable by inhaling or ingesting it. Therefore crystal should not be handled by small children, since they often put objects in their mouths. Lead is present in many other household objects (vintage pewter, older household pipes, garden soil, etc.); always wash your hands after handling these objects, and never drink from a chipped or cracked crystal glass.

Plated Metal & Pewter

This includes the metal parts on our fabric chokers as well as necklaces, earrings, etc., but fabric chokers require special care (see below).

Plated metal jewelry requires a bit more consideration than pieces made of solid precious metals. A plated surface is more than just a coating, but it's not quite a veneer. Even though it's an electrically bonded layer of metal, its thinness means it will eventually erode where it rubs against the skin with prolonged use, revealing the base metal underneath. This is a process which can take anywhere from 2-10 years depending on how frequently you wear it, the quality of the plating, and how well you care for it. This is also why plated jewelry is much less expensive than solid precious metal - its shorter lifespan is the sacrifice we make.

 

Storage & Care

It's easy to make your plated jewelry last longer. If you wear it only periodically (a couple times a month and/or for only a few hours at a time) and avoid contact with household cleaning products, perfume, alcohol-based skin products, potting soil, talc, and abrasive surfaces such as granite, steel wool and sandpaper, it should last 5-10 years, perhaps much longer. Hang up your necklaces and earrings rather than casually tossing them in a jewelry box, or at least keep each item separate in reclosable bags if storing them flat; otherwise you risk rubbing and scratching. You can further protect your plated jewelry by periodically painting clear lacquer specially designed for protecting metal (or even clear nail varnish, if cost is a factor) to the surfaces that touch the skin most frequently.

 

Cleaning Plated Metals & Zinc Alloy Pewter

Polishing: First, try polishing with a soft dry cloth since it's the safest way to remove dirt and restore shine. We recommend reusable/washable jewelry cleaning cloths (e.g. SELVYT® brand) or a piece of plain chamois leather, they're safe on metal surfaces as well as crystal, glass, acrylic and other components (more details on cleaning beads below). Even a very soft old T-shirt can get the job done.

Washing: Still dirty? Avoid contact with abrasive chemicals as they will damage metal plating and ruin the darkened finish of antiqued components. Except for wooden beaded pieces (see Beads section), dip them instead (don't soak) in mildly soapy lukewarm water, rinse, and then gently wipe or blot dry with a very soft lint-free cloth. Air drying can sometimes leave water spots, so it’s best to dry them by hand to ensure they retain their clarity and shine.

Anti-Tarnish Cloths & Liquid Cleaners: If the above two methods don't work, try a chemical cleaner specifically designed for fashion jewelry (intended for brass and porous metals like pewter) such as Jewelry-Aid, or Brasso Metal Polish specifically to shine up brass, copper, chrome and stainless steel. But use these with care! Like chemical cleaners, "impregnated" anti-tarnish polishers like Sunshine® Polishing Cloths (which have gentle micro-abrasives that work great on uncoated crystal and glass beads, and precious metals like solid sterling silver, platinum, shiny brass and gold), they can remove more than tarnish and dirt from plated metals if you rub too hard or use them too often. Also, chemical cleaners and abrasives can remove the rich matte patina of vintage/antiqued pieces, so a little goes a long way - always test in an inconspicuous area first!

Anti-Tarnish Liquids For Silver: For bright silver plated components (the hardware on the backs of our ribbon chokers, for example) we recommend dipping or "painting" any tarnished parts with products specifically designed to clean silver such as Silvo Metal Polish, Empires Instant Tarnish Remover or ShineBrite Silver Dip, usually sold at jewellers, bead/craft stores, and online marketplaces like Amazon. Avoid wetting the fabric however, or it could get damaged - see Fabric Chokers section below.

Fabric Choker Necklaces

Storage & Care

If you are rough with your jewelry, even the most sturdy fabrics can snag, run or tear - avoid casually tossing your choker in your purse or jewelry box. You can fold the ribbon neatly and store in a recloseable bag to save space (we ship our chokers in plastic and/or organza bags, be sure to keep them!), or at just lay it flat in a covered tray. You can also hang velvet or satin ones up by the clasp/chain, but avoid doing this with lace as it could stretch out over time. But the absolutely best way to store them is to always keep them covered to prevent dust accumulation, out of bright daylight to deter fading the fabric, avoid humid environments (e.g. near kitchen or bathroom), and ideally, keep them laid out totally flat, face-up.

 

Wrinkled or Folded Satin & Velvet

Press satin chokers from the back using the lowest setting (dry iron, for synthetics). Do not let the iron touch any metal or glued components. If it doesn't help much, try the lowest possible steam setting, but keep the iron moving quickly so you don't create shiny spots.

Velvet chokers can be steamed: (if you don't have a steamer, set your iron to the lowest steam setting). Hover over the velvet while face up, making several slow passes, avoiding any metal pieces or glued components. Gently brush the pile (fuzzy part) back and forth with your finger for a few seconds while it cools, if needed. If there are any badly crumpled or folded areas, flip the velvet over and iron on lowest steam setting directly on the back, but again be sure to avoid metal and glued parts. Flip over quickly and brush the velvet back and forth with your finger to smooth over the creased areas and fluff up the pile. Repeat if necessary.

 

Stretched-Out, Folded or Wrinkled Lace

Most lace chokers can be "shrunk" or coaxed back into shape with a mist of lukewarm water. Place the choker face down on a towel and mist with a spray bottle until lightly damp, avoiding any metal parts. Move to a dry towel, flip it face-up, and arrange any out-of-shape areas by gently tugging in those spots only. DO NOT pull on it by the ends where the metal clamps attach, or you risk weakening or even tearing the fabric there. Leave it to dry flat.

 

Cleaning The Fabric

All of the ribbon and lace materials we use are colour-fast and washable, but still require care. Generally, wet cleaning should be a last resort since you risk making water stains, puckering the ribbon, creating "worn" marks or even rips - so don't do it until absolutely necessary. 

• "Spot" Cleaning (all fabrics): Dip a cloth in very diluted mild detergent (the same type you use for lingerie/delicates), dab gently according to the tips below. In all cases, don't yank on the ends. DO NOT IMMERSE IN WATER unless it is the absolute last resort (see "Heavy Soiling" section below) or you could damage the fabric and/or the plated metal parts.
  
  
• Lace, Jacquard and Braided/Woven Trim: Dab with a cloth or wipe gently; do not scrub or you may pull the fibres out of shape. Dry flat.
  
  
• Velvet: Gently brush the pile back and forth in long sweeping motions across the length of the ribbon, even the clean areas to ensure you don't make a "worn" spot. Dry flat.
  
  
• Satin, Grosgrain and Organza: Dampen ALL of the fabric equally first by spritzing or blotting with clean water, or you could get watermarks when it dries (avoid wetting metal parts). Then dab gently, or if necessary wipe lightly, with your soapy cloth. To dry, drape it over a towel rack, coat hanger or the back of a chair so the ends will dangle down freely and evenly. When dry, it may require ironing (see "Wrinkled or Folded Satin & Velvet" section above).

 

Getting Rid of Odours: Drape it over a coat hanger and leave in an indoor area with good air circulation for a couple of days. If that doesn't help, mist velvet or lace on the back with fabric refresher spray, eg. Febreze, but test in an inconspicuous area first. Satin may stain, so it's safer to just air it out for several days. If it doesn't help much though, see the "Heavy Soiling" section below. 

 

Heavy Soiling: If the above tips don't get it clean enough, as a very last resort (and this should never be done more than 2 or 3 times in a choker's lifetime), you can hand-wash it.

1. Fill a large soup bowl with cool water and 2-3 drops of mild detergent suitable for delicate synthetics. Drop the choker in, and swish back and forth constantly for about 1 minute, then leave it to soak for 5 more minutes. 
2. Lift it up by slipping your hand under the centre area (don't pick it up by the ends!) and rinse carefully under a cold tap. 
3. Lay it down face-up on a soft dry towel, and blot gently with another towel. DO NOT squeeze or wring, or tug on the metal parts! The fabric at the ends will have softened and could become loose or even rip where the metal parts attach. 
4. If needed, lace can be gently smoothed or tugged back into shape, but again, avoid touching the ends.
5. Drape the choker over a towel rack, coat hanger or the back of a chair so that the ends of the choker dangle freely and evenly down each side. Allow it to dry completely, then if it needs some ironing, follow the instructions in "Wrinkled or Folded Satin & Velvet" above.

 

Beads: Special Treatment, Cleaning & Care

Maintaining beads must be done with care to avoid damaging the surface, especially given the variety of materials beads are made from today. Different types require different cleaning methods, and knowing the correct approach for each can ensure that your beaded jewelry will last.

 

Caring for Different Types

Beads can be made from from glass, crystal, plastic, metal, wood, and many kinds of natural stones. Each material has its own unique needs, and what works for one may not work for another. For example, glass beads can usually withstand gentle cleaning with mild soap and water, but wooden beads are porous and can be damaged by moisture. Likewise, metal beads may tarnish or corrode if exposed to harsh chemicals, and some natural stones such as pearls have a delicate surface and require an even more careful touch. 

 

Glass & Crystal

Glass Beads: Clean with lukewarm water with a small amount of mild dish soap. The beads can be dipped in this solution then gently rubbed with your fingers or a soft cloth to remove dirt and residue. Avoid using hot water, since extreme temperatures can cause some glass beads to crack or fade. After cleaning, rinse thoroughly with clean water then dry immediately by patting with a soft, lint-free cloth. Air drying can leave water spots, so it’s best to dry them by hand to ensure they retain their shine.

Crystal Beads: These are more delicate than regular glass and require a slightly different approach. While they can be cleaned with a mild soap solution, it’s important to handle them more carefully to avoid scratching and chipping. Using a soft, microfiber cloth is recommended to polish the beads gently, removing fingerprints and smudges without applying too much pressure. Because crystal beads are often coated with special finishes to enhance their sparkle, it’s crucial to avoid abrasive cleaners that could wear away these coatings.

 

Plastic / Acrylic / Resin

Plastic beads, which we assume are more durable, are often a lot more easy to scratch and should be cleaned with care. A mild soap solution works well for plastic beads, but it’s important to use a VERY soft cloth to avoid creating micro-scratches on the surface. Avoid using any chemicals or alcohol-based cleaners, as these can cause the plastic to become dull, brittle and/or discolour over time. After cleaning, rinse thoroughly and dry immediately to prevent soap residue from dulling the surface.

 

Metals

Metal beads, particularly those made from sterling silver, brass, or copper, can tarnish over time as they are exposed to air and moisture. To clean metal beads, as always, we recommend using a soft dry polishing cloth first (see section on Plated Metal above), then if it doesn't help, try a commercial jewelry cleaner specifically designed for the type of metal. It’s essential to always follow the manufacturer’s instructions any time you use a chemical cleaner. After cleaning, store in a covered tray, closed jewelry box or storage pouch to minimize further tarnish and dust accumulation.

 

Natural Wood

Wooden beads require a cautious approach due to their highly porous surface. Moisture can cause wood to swell or crack and cause paint to flake off, so it’s best to avoid soaking them in water. Instead, they can be cleaned with a slightly damp cloth, gently wiping away any dirt or grime on the soiled areas only. If the beads are unfinished or have a natural matte finish, it may be beneficial to apply a small amount of beeswax, lemon oil, or other specialized wood conditioner after cleaning to protect the surface and restore lustre. It’s important to avoid alcohol-based cleaners or solvents, as these can dry out the wood and cause it to become dry and brittle.

 

Semi-Precious & Other Natural Stones

Natural stone beads such as turquoise, lapis lazuli and pearls are among the most sensitive and require the gentlest cleaning methods. Many natural stones are porous and can be damaged by water, harsh chemicals, or even exposure to constant light. To clean natural stone beads, a dry or lightly dampened microfiber cloth, or piece of plain dry soft chamois leather (the kind fine jewellers use), is the safest option. Gently wiping the beads with can remove dust and oils without exposing the stone to potentially harmful substances. For very dirty beads, a tiny amount of distilled water can be used, but the beads should be dried immediately and thoroughly to prevent moisture from seeping into the stone. In all cases, it’s crucial to test any cleaning method on a small, inconspicuous area of the bead first to ensure it doesn't cause any damage.

Pearls are extremely delicate and can be easily damaged by improper cleaning. They should never be soaked in water or exposed to harsh chemicals. Instead, pearls should be wiped gently with a soft, damp cloth after each use to remove oils and dirt. If a more thorough cleaning is needed, a mild soap solution can be used, but the pearls should be gently wiped down immediately afterward with a damp cloth to remove any soap, followed by drying with a soft, lint-free cloth. It’s also important to store pearls separately from other jewelry to prevent them from being scratched, in a reclosable cloth bag or plastic pouch.